Clean Beauty Rules: EU Bans, MoCRA and Recalls — 2026-09-17
The EU’s new EmpCo directive banning unsubstantiated green claims takes effect in just ten days, forcing a massive reformulation of marketing materials for major brands. Simultaneously, investigations reveal that mercury-containing skin-lightening products remain widely available online despite long-standing bans, while industry leaders warn that regulatory complexity is threatening European competitiveness.
Clean Beauty Rules: EU Bans, MoCRA and Recalls — 2026-09-17
Top developments
EU Greenwashing Ban Takes Effect September 27
As of September 27, 2026, the EU EmpCo directive will prohibit vague environmental claims such as "eco," "green," "sustainable," or "biodegradable" on cosmetic packaging unless substantiated by recognized certification. This rule specifically targets self-created "clean beauty" seals and general sustainability labels, requiring brands to provide verifiable proof for every claim. Major retailers and cosmetics companies are currently auditing inventory to remove non-compliant packaging before the deadline.

Mercury Skin-Lightening Products Persist Online
A Reuters investigation published on September 16 found that skin-lightening products containing mercury are still being sold on major online retail platforms, ten years after international bans. The investigation identified numerous products with toxic mercury levels that failed to disclose the ingredient on their labels, posing severe health risks to consumers. This highlights significant gaps in online marketplace monitoring and enforcement of existing chemical safety regulations.

Industry Warns of Regulatory Overload
Leading European cosmetics manufacturers, including L'Oréal and Nivea (Beiersdorf), have raised alarms about the increasing burden of EU regulations, arguing it undermines their competitiveness against US and Asian rivals. The industry cites the rapid pace of ingredient bans, labeling changes, and compliance requirements as creating operational inefficiencies. These warnings come as the sector prepares for the upcoming implementation of the EmpCo green claims directive.

Uncertainty Over New Greenwashing Rules in Austria
Retailers and trade associations in Austria are expressing concern over legal uncertainty regarding the upcoming EU greenwashing bans. Rainer Trefelik, head of the Austrian Retail Association, criticized the lack of clear guidelines, noting that many businesses remain unsure about which specific claims will be permissible after the September 27 deadline. This confusion is prompting calls for clearer national-level interpretation of the EU directive.
Local view
French media outlets like L'Info Durable and Alternativi are extensively covering the practical implications of the EmpCo directive for consumers, emphasizing how vague terms like "natural" and "eco-friendly" will soon be restricted without proof. German outlets including Merkur and Heidelberg24 are focusing on the consumer-facing changes, explaining how shoppers will see fewer misleading labels on supermarket shelves starting late September. Meanwhile, Austrian trade group representatives are using local press to voice frustration over the lack of preparatory guidance from regulators.
Context & numbers
- September 27, 2026: The effective date for the EU EmpCo directive, banning unsubstantiated green claims on all consumer products, including cosmetics.
- 10 Years: The duration since mercury was banned in cosmetics under the Minamata Convention, yet illegal online sales persist.
On the radar
- EmpCo Enforcement: Watch for initial enforcement actions or guidance documents from national consumer protection agencies immediately following the September 27 implementation date.
- Online Marketplace Scrutiny: Increased pressure on platforms like Amazon and AliExpress to remove mercury-containing cosmetics following the recent investigative reports.
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