J-Beauty and C-Beauty: Shiseido, Kao, Florasis Abroad — 2026-10-09

Top developments

Zhejiang Cosmetics Manufacturers Report Orders Through 2027

During the National Day holiday period (ending October 1, 2026), Zhejiang-based cosmetics manufacturers reported a significant acceleration in overseas orders, with production slots now booked through 2027. The region’s cosmetics exports have maintained the top position in China for eight consecutive years, driven by a shift toward AI-driven R&D and "Guochao" (China-chic) branding. This surge highlights the manufacturing backbone supporting brands like Florasis and Proya as they expand into Southeast Asia and the West.

Florasis Enters 450 Ulta Beauty Stores in the US

On September 20, 2026, Chinese makeup brand Florasis (Hua Zhi Shu) officially announced its entry into 450 Ulta Beauty stores across the United States. This move marks a significant milestone for C-beauty brands moving beyond e-commerce into major Western brick-and-mortar retail. The brand’s pricing strategy in the US has drawn attention, with some products listed at nearly double their domestic Chinese price points, reflecting premium positioning in foreign markets.

Sephora China Post-JV Strategy Shifts to Douyin-First Models

Following the dissolution of its joint venture in China, Sephora is redefining its physical store role, with new entrants leveraging Douyin (TikTok China) for rapid scaling. One emerging parent company reported RMB 840 million in sales on Douyin in 2024—7.5 times its Tmall sales—and crossed RMB 1.5 billion in GMV in 2025 before entering Sephora stores in November 2025. This trend underscores how C-beauty brands are using social commerce data to secure traditional retail placements.

K-Beauty Expands Into Overseas Pharmacy Chains

While C-beauty focuses on mass retail, K-beauty is aggressively targeting international pharmacy chains. Brands are expanding into markets including Georgia (PSP Pharma) and Brazil (Drogasil), capitalizing on the growing dermocosmetics market. This diversification offers a contrast to J-beauty's reliance on department stores and duty-free channels, potentially pressuring Japanese brands like Kao and Shiseido to explore non-traditional retail partnerships abroad.

Local view

Seoul Economic Daily reports that Korean department stores are transforming into export platforms, opening pop-ups and flagship stores abroad to take K-beauty brands into Japan, the U.S., and Europe. This structural shift allows Korean retailers to act as incubators for local brands seeking international visibility, a model that Japanese department stores have not yet fully adopted for J-beauty exports.

Context & numbers

• China Cosmetics Market: In 2024, retail sales declined by 1.1% to 435.7 billion yuan due to economic slowdowns, forcing domestic brands to look outward for growth.
• Proya Ranking: Proya ranked first on Tmall and second on Douyin’s cosmetics charts in 2025, surpassing international giants like L’Oreal and Estee Lauder in specific digital channels.
• Florasis Japan Sales: Prior to recent expansions, Japan accounted for 40% of Florasis’s total overseas sales, driven by consumer preference for herbal and floral ingredients.

On the radar

• Cosmoprof Asia 2026: Scheduled for November, this event will unite global beauty leaders and showcase innovations, serving as a key launchpad for C-beauty brands entering the Asian market.
• Shiseido Q3 Results: Investors are awaiting Q3 data to see if the structural reforms mentioned in Q1 (Core OPM ~15%) are sustaining profitability despite inbound tourism fluctuations.