Swiss Watches, Rolex Market and High Jewellery — 2026-10-27
The Swiss watch industry reported a strong 11.7% export increase for September, driven by luxury demand and US recovery, while Audemars Piguet launched a new certified pre-owned platform. Meanwhile, the diamond market faces disruption as Chinese producers pivot from jewelry to industrial applications, and Geneva prepares for major autumn auctions.
Swiss Watches, Rolex Market and High Jewellery — 2026-10-27
Top developments
Audemars Piguet launches certified pre-owned platform
On Monday, October 26, Audemars Piguet officially launched "The Watch Keepers," its new platform for certified pre-owned watches. This move signals a strategic shift by major manufacturers to control the secondary market, a sector previously dominated by third-party dealers and independent auction houses. By offering factory-certified pre-owned pieces, AP aims to capture value from the resale market and provide buyers with greater assurance of authenticity and condition.

Swiss watch exports rise 11.7% in September
Swiss watch exports increased by 11.7% year-on-year in September, marking the fourth consecutive month of growth. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry attributed this surge primarily to luxury watches and a significant 85.7% jump in shipments to the United States. Through September, the industry exported 11.1 million wristwatches worth CHF 18.6 billion, reflecting a continued trend of fewer units sold at higher average prices.

Chinese lab-grown diamond producers pivot to industry
As gemstone prices fall due to oversupply and competition, Chinese lab-grown diamond producers are increasingly targeting chip cooling and advanced industrial uses. This diversification highlights a structural shift in the diamond market, where the traditional relationship between carat size and cost is breaking down, potentially impacting luxury jewelry valuations.

Local view
SRF News reported on "mysterious" watch deliveries to France, noting a comet-like rise in exports worth several hundred million francs, which has caused irritation among industry statisticians. In French-speaking Switzerland, Titres Presse highlighted that Geneva’s watch exports rose by 11.1% in the third quarter compared to the previous quarter. Euronews reported that the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is celebrating its 26th anniversary this week and has abandoned gender-specific categories for its awards.

Context & numbers
The September export figures were helped by distortions from US tariff policies in the previous year, creating a low base for comparison. While the most expensive segment (above CHF 3,000) grew by 9.9%, this was slightly less than the industry average. RBC analysts viewed the positive export data as a boost for Swatch Group shares, which traded at €199.05 on October 21.
On the radar
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony is scheduled for Saturday, November 7. Major auction houses including Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s are preparing for the fall 2026 Geneva watch auctions, which feature rare Rolex chronographs and a one-of-a-kind Lange. Christie’s Geneva jewelry auction in November will feature nearly 300 pieces, including a rare Van Cleef & Arpels brooch and a 14.63-carat pink diamond.
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