Fashion Weeks, Runways and Creative-Director Moves — 2026-09-15
New York Fashion Week (NYFW) concluded on September 15, marked by a physical altercation involving CFDA CEO Steven Kolb during a protest at the Cos show and a surge in Brooklyn-based creative showcases. Attention now shifts to London (Sept 17–21) and Milan (Sept 22–28), where the industry prepares for significant creative director debuts, including the new leadership at Moschino and Diane von Furstenberg’s return to the calendar.
Fashion Weeks, Runways and Creative-Director Moves — 2026-09-15
Top developments
CFDA CEO Involved in Physical Altercation at Cos Show
On September 13, during the Cos Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear presentation in New York, Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) CEO Steven Kolb was recorded physically restraining animal rights activists who had disrupted the runway. The incident occurred when PETA protesters interrupted the show, which displayed minimalist cold-weather wardrobing. While the show continued after the disruption, the physical involvement of the CFDA's top executive has sparked debate regarding security protocols and protest management at official fashion week venues.
NYFW Concludes with Thom Browne; DVF Debut Under Henry Zankov
New York Fashion Week officially closed on September 15 with a show by Thom Browne, following a six-day schedule that began on September 10 with the debut of Henry Zankov for Diane von Furstenberg. The September 2026 edition featured approximately 70 shows, marking a return to a robust post-pandemic schedule. The inclusion of DVF back on the official calendar was a key narrative for the week, signaling a stabilization of major American heritage brands within the CFDA framework.
Milan Fashion Week Prepares for Moschino Creative Director Change
As NYFW ends, focus shifts to Milan, where Fashion Week runs from September 22 to 28. A central story for the Italian capital is the debut of the new creative direction at Moschino, led by Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo. The calendar features 203 appointments, including 61 shows and 88 presentations, with Prada opening the week and Versace notably absent from the official schedule. This edition is viewed as a test case for the brand's new aesthetic under its fresh leadership.
London Fashion Week Schedule Released for Sept 17–21
London Fashion Week is set to begin this week (September 17–21), featuring major houses such as Alexander McQueen, Mulberry, Burberry, and Marks & Spencer. The schedule emphasizes Spring/Summer 2027 collections and continues the trend of integrating high-street accessibility with luxury positioning, particularly through the participation of M&S. This week serves as the bridge between the New York conclusion and the upcoming Milan and Paris seasons.
Local view
Brooklyn Creatives Bypass Traditional Venues Local New York media highlighted a growing trend of "off-calendar" events that challenge the exclusivity of traditional NYFW venues. The Brooklyn Paper reported on a "People's Runway" event that drew fashionistas, community members, and celebrities, functioning as an instant cultural phenomenon. This event underscores a shift among younger designers and consumers toward more accessible, community-integrated fashion presentations rather than exclusive, invitation-only shows in Manhattan.
French Media Analyzes "Mercato" of Directors Madame Figaro published an analysis titled "Mercato de la mode," examining the accelerating "musical chairs" of artistic directors across luxury houses over the past two years. The article suggests that these frequent appointments are not just stylistic choices but strategic moves to recalibrate brand value in a saturated market. This perspective frames the upcoming Paris Fashion Week (Sept 28–Oct 6) not just as a showcase of clothes, but as a critical validation period for newly appointed directors.
Context & numbers
- Milan Visitor Projections: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) projects 141,000 visitors for the upcoming Milan Fashion Week, with 78,000 expected to be international attendees. This figure reflects a cautious optimism in a sector described by local press as facing a "difficult year" economically.
- NYFW Volume: The September 2026 NYFW schedule comprised 70 shows, indicating a recovery to pre-pandemic volume levels for the official CFDA calendar.
- LVMH Open House: In a move to democratize access to fashion craftsmanship, LVMH announced its "Journées Particulières" will open Parisian fashion houses to the public from October 16–18, 2026, just after Paris Fashion Week concludes.
On the radar
- Paris Fashion Week Dates: The Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 shows in Paris are scheduled for September 28 to October 6, 2026. Key stories to watch include the debut collections of two new artistic directors and the return of two houses to the official calendar.
- Moschino Debut: Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo’s first collection for Moschino in Milan (Sept 22–28) will be a critical litmus test for the brand's future direction following recent leadership changes.
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