Fashion Weeks, Runways and Creative-Director Moves — 2026-09-18
New York Fashion Week concluded with a focus on joyful dressing and high-profile debuts, while Milan prepares for a season defined by significant creative director appointments and economic headwinds. In Paris, logistical challenges regarding venue safety are emerging ahead of the Spring/Summer 2027 shows, as the industry continues to navigate a rapid reshuffling of leadership at major luxury houses.
Fashion Weeks, Runways and Creative-Director Moves — 2026-09-18
Top developments
Dario Vitale Appointed Creative Director of Emporio Armani
In a landmark move for the Italian fashion house, Dario Vitale has been named the new Creative Director of Emporio Armani and Head of Accessories for Giorgio Armani. This appointment marks the first time an outsider to the Armani family has assumed this dual responsibility, signaling a new strategic phase for the brand. Vitale joins after a brief tenure at Versace, bringing fresh perspective to a house that is preparing to close out Milan Fashion Week on September 28. 
Milan Fashion Week Opens with Prada, Closes with Armani
Milan Fashion Week for the Spring/Summer 2027 collections runs from September 22 to 28, featuring over 61 shows, 88 presentations, and 54 events. The schedule has been strategically arranged so that Prada opens the week and Armani closes it, bookending the event with two of Italy’s most influential houses. This lineup highlights a mix of established giants and emerging talent, including debut collections from designers like Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo at Moschino. 
NYFW Concludes with Focus on Joy and Debuts
New York Fashion Week (September 10–15) wrapped up with a distinct trend toward "joyful dressing," as designers offered levity through party hats and vibrant colors in their Spring/Summer 2027 collections. The week featured several high-profile debuts, including Henry Zankov’s first collection for Diane von Furstenberg and Thom Browne’s finale show, which drew inspiration from Disney’s A Bug's Life. The season was also marked by anniversaries for several brands, reinforcing a celebratory mood amidst a competitive market.
London Fashion Week Eyes Heritage Returns and New Guard
Upcoming London Fashion Week (Spring/Summer 2027) is set to feature a blend of heritage brand homecomings and rising designers. Key moments include Alexander McQueen’s return to the London schedule and Christopher Kane’s debut collection for Mulberry. The British Fashion Council’s calendar emphasizes both classic brands re-establishing their presence and new talent ready to make their mark, positioning London as a hub for creative reinvention. 
Local view
Le Monde reports that finding suitable venues for Paris Fashion Week has become a significant challenge due to stringent new safety regulations and intense competition among organizers for spacious, central locations. This logistical pressure could impact the scale and location choices for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2027 shows in Paris.
Il Fatto Quotidiano highlights that Milan Fashion Week 2026 is unfolding against a backdrop of declining sector revenues and export figures. The publication notes that while there are 203 events planned, the industry is grappling with a "crisis" in traditional business models, even as it showcases new creative directors like Dario Vitale at Armani.
Context & numbers
- Milan Volume: The Milan Fashion Week schedule includes over 61 sfilate (runway shows), 88 presentazioni (presentations), and 54 events.
- Paris Calendar: The Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 provisional calendar lists 68 defiles (shows), scheduled from September 28 to October 6, 2026.
- NYFW Schedule: New York Fashion Week ran from September 10 to 15, 2026, featuring approximately 70 shows according to preliminary schedules.
On the radar
- Paris Fashion Week Dates: The womenswear shows in Paris will take place from September 28 to October 6, 2026. Watch for the debut collections from newly appointed creative directors.
- Emerging Talent in Milan: Keep an eye on the "new gen" of designers highlighted by local press, including Francesco Murano, Victor-Hart, Des Phemmes, Act n°1, and Florania, who are gaining traction during Milan Fashion Week.
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