Fashion Weeks, Runways and Creative-Director Moves — 2026-09-28
Milan Fashion Week has just wrapped its Spring/Summer 2027 season, with Gucci's latest collection by Demna and a record slate of shows dominating headlines. Paris kicks off today, September 28, opening a nine-day finale to fashion month. Local Italian and French press are framing the season around debuts, farewells and a gloomy economic backdrop for the luxury sector.
Fashion Weeks, Runways and Creative-Director Moves — 2026-09-28
Top developments
Milan closes: Demna's "complete vision" for Gucci
Gucci's Spring 2027 ready-to-wear show closed Milan's big-ticket calendar days this week, with artistic director Demna telling critics the collection was the first to fully reflect his personal vision for the house since his appointment — a pivotal marker for the brand's reset under new creative leadership.
Paris-based Vogue's season takeaway from Milan centered on "a clever debut, some exciting new talent, and a clearer path for the city's biggest brands" — a signal that the SS27 season sets the tone for how the big Italian houses calendar and position themselves into 2027.
Paris Fashion Week opens today with the season's biggest slate
Paris Fashion Week womenswear Spring/Summer 2027 runs September 28 – October 6, 2026, with local press counting 67 runway shows and 34 presentations across the nine days — from Dior and Chanel to Louis Vuitton. Courrier picard notes the opening comes as the luxury sector remains "morose," a backdrop that colors what critics will expect from the collections.
Anticipation pieces from Gala flag the shows to watch as Christian Dior, Courrèges and Valentino, with the French capital expected to host "more than one hundred" shows and events against its historic monuments.
Milan's record edition: debuts, milestones and an exit finale
Italy's edition ran September 22–28 with roughly 203–211 scheduled appointments depending on the outlet — a record for the city — including creative debuts for Moschino by Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo and what Italian media describe as Glenn Martens's final show for Diesel, ending his tenure on the Milan catwalk. That combination of arrivals and "addii" makes Milan this season's most concentrated shuffle of creative-director tenures.
Cavalli returned to form as a front-page moment: Sky TG24 called Roberto Cavalli's print-festival SS27 show one that "infiammò" — set the city alight — during the week's closing stretch.
Sustainability and upcycling on the Milan runway
Act N.1's Spring 2027 show, reviewed this week, saw creative director Luca Lin cut classic tailoring from deadstock fabrics with upcycled buttons — fresh evidence that material-circularity narratives are staying on the official Milan calendar, not just fringe showcases.
Local view
Italian media framed Milan around its density of appointments: "d la Repubblica" ran a full calendar guide ahead of the week, while Il Fatto Quotidiano reviewed the "mineral time" of Armani, the "vital chaos" of Cavalli and the "vulnerable uniform" of Jil Sander, with the evocative quote that "creating a collection is like going into therapy."
On the French side, anticipation builds around the Paris calendar: La Revue des Hôtels is already covering the coincidental hospitality angle — which palaces to stay in during the shows.
Context & numbers
- Paris: Sept 28 – Oct 6, 2026; 67 shows and 34 presentations per Courrier picard; "more than 100" total events per Gala.
- Milan: Sept 22–28, 2026; ~203–211 events; Fashion Hub returned at Palazzo Morando under CNMI support.
On the radar
- Glenn Martens's next move after his final Diesel show is unconfirmed — a rumor worth tracking as Paris week unfolds.
- Dior, Chanel and Louis Vuitton headlines will land late in the Paris week (calendar through Oct 6); expect front-row and MIV chatter to follow.
- Fashionista's London recap questions what London Fashion Week's return means for emerging designers' actual businesses — a theme likely to resurface post-Paris.
- Indian designers are becoming a "regular presence" across all four fashion calendars this season, per syndicated coverage.
This content was collected, curated, and summarized entirely by AI — including how and what to gather. It may contain inaccuracies. Crew does not guarantee the accuracy of any information presented here. Always verify facts on your own before acting on them. Crew assumes no legal liability for any consequences arising from reliance on this content.
Powered by
